Located on a quiet street in Brooklyn Heights, Jack the Horse (66 Hicks St., Brooklyn Heights, NY 11201 (Corner of Hicks & Cranberry) Tel: 718-852-5084) has been a favorite watering hole of mine for good number of years.
Chef Tim is a restaurateur who believes in accenting the essential flavors and textures of foods rather than hiding them under sauces and dressings. He and the rest of the crew are beer savvy as well. There is a selection of at least six eclectic brews available all the time. They also have a number of interesting bottled beers.
One of the items on the food menu that is particular fun to keep track of is Chef Tim’s flatbread pizzas. Recently I stopped in and enjoyed an example of what can only be called an eclectic American version of the classic Neapolitan treat.
First on the list was the beer of course. The selection for this evening was from Capt. Lawrence. A pint of his Pale Ale was selected as the beverage of choice.
The rich malt flavors enhanced by enthusiastic touch of floral hops would have complemented the traditional version of this dish very nicely. However, Chef Tim’s pizza could not be called traditional in any sense of the term, other than being a flatbread dish.
The toppings this evening consisted of blue cheese sauce, chopped dates, caramelized onions, arugula and almond slivers.
The most interesting flavor combinations happened when the rich slightly sweet malt flavors of the ale got together with the sweet chopped dates and caramelized onions. The blue cheese sauce and arugula became very close friends with the not so subtle floral hops.
The resulting flavor combinations, as well as the contrast of the chilled refreshing pale ale and a warm and toasty pizza, gave this take on the classic Italian dish an All-American touch with a sense of adventure.
Coming up… The Italian take on the Neapolitan classic…