HOT TRUB@BEER BASICS

HOT TRUB@BEER BASICS.COM

Vol. 03 No. 29 --- 4 November 2002

A newsletter of special interest to brewers,

members of the brewing community, chefs, restaurateurs,

and members of the media that cover the beverage alcohol business.

If you wish to be dropped from this list please respond to this posting to peter.lafrance@beerbasics.com

Include the word “remove” in the Subject: line.

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Publisher: Peter LaFrance

Editor: Deven Black

From Behind The Bar: Chris Halleron

On The Loose: Kurt Epps

On The Beat: Alan Wax

Travel: Sharon McDonnell

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FROM THE PUBLISHER

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LATEST NEWS:

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FEDS AWARD GRANT TO DECONSTRUCT BEER

The USDA has awarded a $300,000 grant to a subsidiary of Brooklyn Center, Minn.-based Mocon Inc. to study how variables affect beer ingredients and to develop a high-tech instrument that will adjust the beverage to a brewer's standard.

Mocon's Microanalytics subsidiary in Round Rock, Texas, is working with Sierra Nevada Brewing, and a taste panel at Texas A&M University on the two-year study, which was announced last Wednesday.

Microanalytics - which has done odor analysis on everything from swine farms to blueberry muffins and basmati rice - has instruments that can measure the various elements contributing to aroma quality.

The project started with a USDA grant to work with a sensory panel at Texas A&M to identify the compound responsible for the perfumed fragrance of basmati rice.

Although the company could have built an instrument for importers to use in screening for differences in rice batches, Mycroanalytics decided to use beer for phase two of the study because of the larger commercial potential.

The aim of the beer study, once the aroma and flavor components have been identified, is to create a quality control detector that can adjust the components to a standard level and is easy to use on the production floor. ``That's the ultimate goal of the brewer. They know what their gold standard is. Their sensory people can define what is the gold standard,'' said Don Wright, Microanalytics' technical director. ``Essentially, you can take any product and develop aroma attributes,'' he said. ``It really doesn't matter if it's rice, or beer, or packaging material, or some type of food material. The process is basically the same.''

http://www.startribune.com/stories/1556/3402093.html

(Publishers Note: The ability to design flavors and aromas that can be combined to be perceived as “natural” is nothing new. What strikes me about the above project is that the resulting beers will resemble the tomato you bought yesterday at the supermarket. It may look like a tomato you picked from the vine last August but when tasted the fraud is exposed and the senses betrayed. Yes, quality control is necessary, but the slight imperfections make the difference between leather and “pleather”. Which would you rather wear? – Peter LaFrance)

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NEW YORK’S HOPS FARMING REVIVAL GROWS

For the first time in almost a century, a commercial brewer is using New York State grown hops in its beers.

Rick Pedersen works 1,200 acres in Seneca, NY. One of those acres is dedicated to hops.

“This year, I've sold all my hops and everybody's been real pleased with them,'' says Pedersen.

Wagner Brewing Co. of Lodi, Seneca County, brews its India Pale Ale with hops commercially grown in New York State. Wagner and the Troy Pub and Brewery in Troy, Rensselaer County, bought out his hop batch this year -- and love the idea of making a beer with a New York hop.

''I think it's fantastic that he's grown some hops,'' says Andrew Cummings, Wagner's head brewer. ''I hope he can continue to do it.''

In the 19^th Century hops were a major commercial crop in upstate New York. Many brewers in the northeast and elsewhere used New York hops but Prohibition, plant diseases, and competition from western growers killed off the local market. Pedersen is active with the North East Hop Alliance, a group dedicated to reintroducing small scale hop farming in the area while preserving hop barns and other remnants of New York’s hop history.

For more information visit - www.wagnervineyards.com

http://democratandchronicle.com/goesout/dines/wine/021022beer.shtml

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SUDS WITH A SOCIAL CONSCIENCE

By Carol Milano

Next time you savor a beer, you might be saving the forest, protecting an endangered lighthouse, or encouraging alternative energy use.

With beers tasting just as good as there competitors’, a pioneering trio of small American breweries is showing how well suds mix with social and environmental concerns.

Last May, Summit Brewing Company was approached by the Forest Stewardship Council about using certified wood at its brewery. The St. Paul firm decided that supporting sustainable forestry would be a smart business investment for them. “Buying certified pallets that come from well-managed and harvested forests lets us reassure our customers that we purchase things not taken from clear-cut forests. We’re upholding our company values while encouraging forest management practices that protect clean water resources -- an essential ingredient in quality beer,” says Christopher Seitz, Operations Manager.

Switching to certified pallets was an easy decision, because they’re not paying a premium for the wood, although Seitz had originally expected to. Fortunately, Summit’s supplier also joined the Forest Stewardship Council and began to manufacture certified pallets. “We actually get fan mail about it, even from non- beer drinkers,” Seitz marvels. “It didn’t cost us a thing – the best kind of advertising.” Summit, established in 1986, makes eight types of craft beers.

The small brewery’s staff has always believed that it has relationships not only with its customers and wholesalers, but with the environment, as well. For example, “we take our coffee-brewing as seriously as our beer-brewing,” Seitz jokes. His company gets organic, fair-traded beans for its employees from Peace Coffee, a Minneapolis company active in rainforest preservation.

Light Ale and Lighthouses

The American Lighthouse Foundation, a small non-profit group in Maine, is dedicated to the preservation of lighthouses. Its co-founder, Tim Harrison, was thrilled when Fred Forsley, president of Shipyard Brewing Company in Portland, contacted him to propose developing a beer that could help fund his organization’s efforts. Shipyard Light Ale, created by Master Brewer Alan Pugsley, is crisp, dry, golden ale. Six different images of lighthouses from Maine to Massachusetts adorn its bottles. Part of its sales goes to the foundation.

“Lighthouses are symbols of our maritime past,” says Forsley. “Most traditional shipyards, docks, and fish processing plants have disappeared without a trace. Lighthouses endure as a reminder of the seafaring tradition of New England.” The new beer was introduced in mid-2001, with a celebration cruise touring Casco Bay. Shipyard Brewing Company, founded in 1994, currently produces 10 different varieties of English style and seasonal ales.

Brewin’ In The Wind

By unanimous employee vote in 1999, New Belgium Brewing Company, in Fort Collins, Colorado became America’s first totally wind-powered brewery. Today, it’s the largest brewery in the world to meet 100% of its energy needs through wind use. Nationally-recognized for its environmental efficiency, the company began on-site water treatment last May, to generate re-usable by-products like methane and nutrient-rich sludge while cleaning the water they used in the brewing process. The methane then fuels a co-generation plant, and the sludge helps build soil. The treatment makes their water clean enough to discharge back into the ground or the Poudre River.

Steam condensers on their kettles allow hot water to be re-used in the brewing process. Sun tubes provide daytime lighting. Their new 200 brewer-barrel Stienecker Brewhouse will be America’s most technologically advanced, and 40% more energy efficient than its predecessor. The company recycles everything: damaged cardboard cartons, keg caps, amber glass, office materials, and even plastic shrink-wrap.

Founded in 1991, New Belgium makes 15 handcrafted world-class beers in the Belgian tradition, many of them award winners. The company is socially responsible, too – and very social: their CEO, Kim Jordan, is also known as “Chief of Fun.” The brewery, 34% employee-owned, gives $1 per barrel to charity, balancing donations between cultural, social, environmental, and drug/alcohol awareness programs. After one year of employment, each worker receives a Fat Tire Cruiser bicycle, to encourage biking to work because it’s good for the environment. The fifth anniversary gift is a trip to Belgium, for immersion in beer culture.

Does their altruism make business sense? “Wind power does cost more, but we’re glad to do it. We would rather save the environment than save money,” says Alex Leedy, a New Belgium spokesperson.

If more breweries follow the examples of these trailblazers, you’ll soon be able to choose your cause while you order your beer!

RESOURCES FOR READERS:

To find out where these beers are sold, check their websites:

www.newbelgium.com

www.shipyard.com

www.summitbrewing.com

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BUILDING A BEER DINNER MENU 101

By Peter LaFrance

This is the story of creating and presenting a beer dinner. To be able to have the pick of a menu, the attention of the chef, and the entire beer selection of a restaurant at one’s command is quite an experience.

On a recent cool, windy Friday evening this New Yorker of twenty-five years got lost going from the 33^rd Street IND subway line to the corner of Madison Avenue and 40^th Street. I arrived at Branzini, a restaurant nestled in the exclusive Library Hotel, a half hour late and greatly embarrassed, to be greeted by the manager, David Marsden, and my wife and tasting partner, at the sitting-bar that runs the full length of the frontage-wide window.

Marsden soon had us settled at a rear corner table, perusing the menu and beer list.

The beer list consisted of Saison Dupont, Menebrea, Stella Artois, Aventinus Weiss, Chimay Rouge, Amstel and non-alcohol Paulaner Thomasbrau.

The Stella Artois and Amstel were expected. Both are mainstays of Manhattan bars and restaurants. Saison Dupont, Aventinus Weiss and Chimay Rouge were pleasant surprises although not a shock due to Marsden’s ability to put together interesting beverage lists.

After chatting with Chef Sean Cznadel, Marsden and I decided neither to create any new dishes nor bring in other beers for the beer dinner we would present. We would pair the beers on the list with selected items from Branzini’s standard menu.

We began with Tuna Tartar, with tomatoes, capers and olives. This was paired with Stella Artois. The key here was the salinity of the fish, capers and olives. A slightly sweet, refreshing beer with just a touch of hops cleanses the pallet and refreshes the taste buds.

Grilled sardines brushed with Tuscan olive oil and lemon met their match in Saison Dupont. The slightly charred fish needed the slightly rustic pear and apple flavors of the beer. The beer’s sweet and funky finish echoed the sardine’s char flavors from the grill and complemented the oil and lemon.

Ricotta cavatelli with roma tomatoes and Italian sausage was paired with Aventinus Weiss. This pairing was a bit strange at first but the tang of the weiss beer smoothed out the spike of acid from the tomato sauce and the richness of the sausage. We experimented by tasting Stella Artois with this dish: the refreshing effect of the beer seemed thin compared to that of the Weiss.

Menebria was matched with roasted lemon chicken, braised escarole and natural jus. This well-balanced amber Italian beer comes from the oldest small brewery in Italy. Neither hop nor malt flavors overpowered the food. When tasted with Saison Dupont the lemon in the chicken and the escarole were highlighted and the beer’s fruit flavors accented.

Grilled hanger steak spinach salad and crispy panchetta was paired with Chimay and Saison. Chimay’s wine like flavors and sweet roasted grain accents cut through the richness of the panchetta and accented the grilled red meat. The Saison was also successful but seemed to loose effect after the third or fourth taste of the dish.

Grilled Branzino (for which the restaurant is named) with braised fennel & artichokes found a match in the rustic flavors of Saison Dupont, echoing the pairing with the sardines at the beginning of the meal.

After two hours of searching for flavors, switching from beer to beer to notice how the flavors of the foods changed, and making sure that the notes reflected the consensus of the diners, the first step to developing a beer-dinner had been taken. In a few weeks we will return and you will go behind the scenes of presenting a dinner based on the above tasting notes.

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NEW PRODUCTS - PROMOTIONS – EVENTS – DINNERS:

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ARROGANT BASTARD ALE RESPONDS TO ALLEGATIONS

San Marcos, CA --- Stone Brewing Co. responds to allegations of their Arrogant Bastard Ale having "too much flavor" by choosing to add insult to injury with the release of SIX different 3Litre bottles to mark the "5th Anniversary of the Arrogance" (aka "5th Birthday of the Bastard”).

November 1997 was the first time that the Arrogant Bastard Ale was released upon an unsuspecting public and thus November 2002 marks the fifth year of its existence. In keeping with the Arrogant tradition, Stone Brewing staff members recommend that the best way to celebrate the Bastard’s fifth birthday is by buying YOURSELF a gift. True Bastards understand this. It is believed that only Arrogant Bastards with the highest self-image will buy themselves the entire “six-pack.”

As part of the birthday celebration, the Bastard has poured rampant invective on six different 3-liter bottle labels. “The different designs and text on each of the bottles is sort of like that chocolate stuff you pour on your ice cream that hardens into a shell,” explains Stone Bastard-In-Chief Greg Koch. “Only you can’t eat them. Oh, and they’re not really sweet or chocolaty either…more bitter really. But they ARE tasty!”

Bitter indeed. Perhaps that is an understatement. The following snippet of text taken from one of the 3Litre designs sets the tone for the series: “Numbskull, gaping gobemouche, simpleton, unwashed masses, pedestrian, feeble, narrow minded, and pathetically blathering idiots are just some of the words we have used to refer to the unworthy. Many of you have laughed and scorned along with us. Yet many more still stare in bewildered befuddlement while embracing their ignorance with such resolve that they remain oblivious as to our very existence.”

Five new Arrogant Bastard Ale designs and One Double Bastard Ale design will be released in very limited quantities. The bottles are big, but the Bastard inside is even bigger. Staff scientists at the brewery estimate that a single, massive six-pack of Bastard 3liters would contain approximately five times the flavor of all the fizzy yellow beer produced nationwide in a single year. Arrogant Bastard Ale supporters are urged not to let this kind of power fall into the wrong hands.

Arrogant Bastard Ale is 7.2% alc/vol and is available year-round in draft and 22oz bottles. A new 3Liter bottle edition is released in limited quantities each November. This is the first year different bottle designs are being released simultaneously. Double Bastard Ale is 10% alc/vol and is released only in limited quantities each November in 22oz bottles and, some years, even more-limited 3Litre bottles.

Stone Brewing is located at 155 Mata Way in San Marcos, CA and recently made the 2002 edition of the Inc 500, which recognizes the 500 fastest growing companies in America. Arrogant Bastard Ale is currently distributed in 15 states. For more info, go to www.stonebrew.com, or www.arrogantbastard.com or call the brewery at (760) 471-4999.

The five different Arrogant Bastard Ale designs will be scattered AT RANDOM in the various distribution areas. Each given distribution area (such as the state of Arizona) may or may not get all of the various designs.

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JUNEAU HISTORY INSPIRES ANNUAL RELEASE OF ALASKAN SMOKED PORTER

(JUNEAU) - The release of Alaskan Brewing Company's 2002 Smoked Porter carries on a rich tradition of smoked malts in Alaska. From the Russian settlers to the German and Czech brewmasters of the gold rush, many brewers dried and roasted their malt over fire creating a distinct smoked character.

Alaskan Brewing Company recaptures this historic taste in its critically acclaimed Alaskan Smoked Porter. The Alaskan Brew Crew uses alder for smoking and a commercial smokehouse at Juneau’s Taku Smokeries to prepare the malt.

"Some breweries in Alaska had their own malting companies," says Geoff Larson, brewmaster and co-founder of Alaskan. “They would roast or dry their own malts over fire, hence the smoky flavor and aroma.”

Alaskan Smoked Porter is one of the most award-winning beers in the country with 11 medals to its credit from the nation’s prestigious Great American Beer Festival as well as numerous international awards. Brewed only once each year in small amounts, this limited edition beer can be aged.

Aging allows a unique blend of plum, raisin, and sherry notes to emerge as it continues to develop in the bottle. Popular for the unique smoky flavor of indigenous alder wood when first brewed, Alaskan Smoked Porter has been credited with starting a revival of smoked beers in the United States.

Interest in Alaskan Smoked Porter with its numerous awards and the cult-like following around the country, led other breweries to brew their own smoked beers using regional hardwoods. It also inspired Geoff Larson to team up with veteran beer writer, Ray Daniels to author a Brewer’s Publication style series book, Smoked Beers, released in 2001 and received

a silver medal from the North American Guild of Beer Writers’ Quill & Tankards awards.

Celebrating 16 years of brewing world-class beer, the Juneau-based brewery produces Alaskan Amber, Pale, ESB, and Stout year round. Alaskan Winter Ale and Smoked Porter make regular fall and winter appearances in limited amounts. Distribution extends throughout the Pacific Northwest, encompassing Alaska, Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Northern California and Northern Nevada.

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LEFT HAND BREWING COMPANY RELEASES HOLIDAY SEASONAL XXXMAS ALE

(Longmont, Colo.) – Left Hand Brewing Company has released their annual XXXmas Ale for the holiday season. Left Hand XXXmas Ale is limited to 80 barrels and only available in ½ barrel kegs and 22 oz. bottles. The beer will be available November 1^st through the holiday season.

Left Hand XXXmas Ale is a spiced strong ale using all natural ingredients to give the beer its festive nature. Honey is added to provide fermentable sugars and additional sweetness. The carbonation is kept low and hops used sparingly to accentuate the flavors derived from the spices. Ground nutmeg, orange zest, whole cloves, crushed cinnamon and chopped ginger is used to spice the beer. Left Hand XXXmas Ale has an alcohol by volume of over 7.5% that is balanced by the wide array of spices.

“XXXmas Ale is a great example of a hand–crafted ale that requires great attention to detail and an abundance of manual labor,” said Dick Doore, Left Hand brewmaster. “Our employees had to zest six cases of oranges and chop all the spices by hand in order for XXXmas Ale to have its outstanding character.”

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SAMUEL SMITH’S SELECTION BOX—“SELECT” A GREAT GIFT FOR THE HOLIDAY

Samuel Smith’s Selection Box, a gift sampler from Yorkshire is oldest brewery, is now available in the United States, for the first time.

The artfully decorated box contains one 18.7 oz bottle each of Samuel Smithí

s Celebrated Oatmeal Stout, Nut Brown Ale and Old Brewery Pale Ale, plus a

traditional Samuel Smith Yorkshire pint glass and two brewery coasters. The

outside of the box carries a description and photo of each beer, along with

brewery history.

“The Samuel Smith Selection Box is a great way to expose people to a variety

of our beers,” Rich Hamilton, President, said. “This package will make the

perfect gift for any beer lover.”

Samuel Smithís Old Brewery has consistently been named “One of the Top Ten

Breweries in the World” at the prestigious World Beer Championships.

Additionally, each of the beers in the Selection Box is an award-winner at

the World Beer Championships.

Established in 1758, Samuel Smithís Old Brewery in Tadcaster is Yorkshire’s

oldest brewery. Now in its fifth generation of family management, the rich

Samuel Smith brewing tradition remains unchanged. The yeast at The Old

Brewery has not been altered since the turn of the century. Only whole Kent

hop flowers, which are hand-weighed by the master hop blender, are used, and

the brewing water is drawn from a well sunk over 200 years ago. Samuel Smith’s Old Brewery is the last remaining brewery to use the Yorkshire slate

square method of fermentation.

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FULL SAIL WASSAIL NOW AVAILABLE FOR THE HOLIDAY SEASON

(Hood River, Oregon) -Brewing Wassail is a welcomed annual tradition for the employee-owners at Full Sail Brewing Company. Each year the Full Sail crew brews up a batch of Wassail to celebrate the holiday season. Wassail, with its rich warm flavors, is perfect for an evening by the fire or to share with friends and family at any holiday celebration. With its festive package, Wassail makes the ideal gift for the beer enthusiasts in your life, and is the perfect accompaniment to the desserts and hearty dishes that the holidays bring. For a listing

of food pairing suggestions and recipes featuring the brews of Full Sail visit the Full Sail Brewing website at www.fullsailbrewing.com

Wassail Winter Ale is a lush, garnet colored strong ale that is brewed with a combination of several specialty malts and hopped with four varieties of imported German hops. This richly balanced holiday ale promises to please the palates of malt and hop lovers alike. Look for Wassail twelve and six packs at your favorite store, on draught at your local restaurant or pub, and on all Horizon Airlines flights (free of charge) during the months of November &.

The Full Sail brewery is located in Hood River, Oregon, in the scenic Columbia River Gorge. Full Sail, has been making great beer since 1987, and brews a line of handcrafted ales including the award-winning Full Sail Amber and Pale Ales, as well as Rip Curl and four seasonal brews. Full Sail is available in 14 western states. For more information log on to

www.fullsailbrewing.com.

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GREAT INTERNATIONAL BEER FESTIVAL & GREAT INTERNATIONAL BEER COMPETITION

The Great International Beer Festival and the Great International Beer Competition return to Providence, Rhode Island on November 8 and 9. This year marks the ninth year for the festival and the sixth year for the competition, both held at the Rhode Island Convention Center.

Previously named the Great Northeast International Beer Festival and the Great Northeast International Beer Competition, the two events are greatly expanded in scope this year, bringing in more beers from around the country and around the world. This expansion necessitated the dropping of the word Northeast from the events' names.

The Great International Beer Festival, held on Saturday, November 9, expects to attract approximately 5,000 people during the afternoon and evening sessions. Over 300 beers will be offered from at least 60 breweries.

The Great International Beer Competition, taking place on Friday, November 8, expects to draw several hundred professionally brewed domestic and imported beers and ciders. Professional brewers will judge the beers and ciders in blind tasting panels. Gold, silver and bronze awards will be awarded in style categories.

Information about the Great International Beer Festival and the Great International Beer Competition is available from Festivals of America: www.click2beers.com , 401-274-3234. Brewing News.com is the media sponsor for both events.

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REDBONES NORTHWEST BREWERS BANQUETS

Dates: Mon, Nov 18 & Tues, Nov 19, 2002 @ 7:00 PM

Throughout November, Redbones taps a selection of Northwest craft beers rarely available in the East. Two dinners highlight the month. They feature speaker/brewers: Dick Cantwell from Elysian Brewing, Fred Bowman from Portland Brewing, Steve Lovin from Siletz, Fal Allen from Anderson Valley, and Sebbie Buhler from Rogue.

Location:
Redbones
55 Chester Street
Somerville, MA

Admission: $35.00 per person, tax and gratuity included

Reservations: Required. Call 617.628.2200
For information: Call 617.628.2200 or visit www.redbones.com

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NOVEMBER

1-3 – 25th PINT Bokbierfestival, Amsterdam, The Netherlands, www.bbf.htm

2 – 4th Annual AHA Teach A Friend to Homebrew Day, Anywhere You Happen To Be,

888-822-6273, www.beertown.org/AHA/

2 – Maine Brewer's Festival, Portland, ME, 207-771-7571, www.mainebrew.com

8 – 9 -- The 6th Annual Great Northeast Beer & Cider Competition/ 9th Annual Great Northeast International Beer Fest, Providence, RI.

Contact: Competition Director: Gregg Glaser, 203-834-0800;

Contact: gregg@yankeebrew.com