HOT
TRUB@BEER BASICS.COM
Vol. 03 No. 28 --- 30 October 2002
A newsletter of
special interest to brewers,
members of the
brewing community, chefs, restaurateurs,
and members of the
media that cover the beverage alcohol business.
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===========================
Publisher: Peter
LaFrance
Editor: Deven Black
From Behind The Bar:
Chris Halleron
On The Loose: Kurt
Epps
On The Beat: Alan Wax
Travel: Sharon
McDonnell
============================
FROM THE PUBLISHER
===========================
LATEST NEWS:
===========================
AOB AND SLOW FOOD USA
SHOW AT THE SALON DEL GUSTO
HARPOON DOUBLES
BOSTON BREWERY CAPACITY
OHIO ADJUSTS ABV LIMITS FOR BEER
OLAND BREWERY ADDS
VOLUMN IN HALIFAX
===========================
SPECIAL REPORT:
AN EASY GETAWAY FROM
THE BIG EASY
By Sharon McDonnell
BEER & THE HUNGRY
VEGAN: DINNER IS SERVED
By Kurt Epps
with Peg Zwerver
===========================
NEW PRODUCTS -
PROMOTIONS – EVENTS – DINNERS:
===========================
===========================
CHECK THESE OUT:
Links to interesting sites.
=============================
============================
FROM THE PUBLISHER
============================
Greetings,
This week we look at
Slow Food making friends with craft beers in Italy, Ohio making sense of its
beer laws, and breweries in Boston and Nova Scotia making more room for more
beer.
All of these stories
tell of an industry still growing in the face of financial instability.
Right now, for a
moment, let me suggest that there is a sense of stability that can be found in
the breweries, wineries and restaurants of North America.
Let us, for a moment,
relax and enjoy a glass of beer with dinner and conversation with an old friend
or family member.
This is what has not
been reported. The enjoyment of life that can be found around the table, at
home or in a restaurant, will always be the last social bastion of western
civilization.
In between the
thanksgiving celebrations of Canada and the United States I suggest a toast to
good friends, good food and good beer.
After dinner we will
solve the problems of the world over a malt of your choice.
Cheers!
Peter LaFrance
Publisher
================================
=================================
LATEST NEWS:
=================================
AOB AND SLOW FOOD
USA SHOW AT THE SALON DEL GUSTO
On October 25th
2002, the Association of Brewers, Slow Food U.S.A. and more than 10 American
craft breweries collaborated at the Taste America part of the Salon del Gusto,
the world’s largest international food festival. The following is a report from
the offices of the Association of Brewers.
“Salon del Gusto ran Oct. 24 through Oct. 28 in Torino, Italy. In 2000, the first Salon del Gusto attracted more 130,000 people to taste the best artisan foods from around the globe.
“The primary purpose
of representing American craft beer at this event is to improve the image of
American craft beer internationally and nationally,” said Charlie Papazian, the
president of the Association of Brewers.
“Our intent is to represent the American craft brewing and beer industry
to show the world some of the best craft beer products.”
This year’s Taste
America features taste seminars that focus on such topics as chocolate, corn,
wild Alaskan salmon and dinners that feature sustainable seafood and locally
grown produce of the Piedmant region of Italy.
The centerpiece of
Taste America is the mercato or marketplace, where the Association of Brewers
and Slow Food U.S.A. share two booths sponsored by the U.S. Embassy in
Rome. These booths showcase more than
35 American craft beer brands that will be featured at the festival’s
workshops.
Papazian will be
co-leading two workshops, featuring Alaskan wild Salmon and Alaskan beer. The other workshop features American and
Irish farmhouse cheeses paired with American craft beer. Garrett Oliver, brewmaster of Brooklyn
Brewing Co., N.Y., U.S.A., will host an “extreme beers” workshop, featuring
several other American craft beers.
More than 15
individuals representing seven American craft breweries are attending the Taste
America. The breweries represented are:
CH Evans Brewing Co., N.Y.; Brooklyn Brewing Co., N.Y.; Left Hand/Tabernash
Brewing Co., Colo.; Odell’s Brewing Co., Colo.; Flying Dog Ales, Colo.; Pelican
Pub, Ore.; Deschutes Brewing Co., Ore.; Alaskan Brewing Co., Alaska; Stone
Brewing Co., Calif.; Kona Brewing Co., Hawaii.
Slow Food, an Italian
association founded in 1986 that seeks a rediscovery of authentic culinary
traditions and the conservation of the world’s quality food and wine heritage,
organizes the Salon del Gusto.
Slow Food U.S.A. is a
non-profit educational organization dedicated to supporting and celebrating the
food traditions of North America.
The Association of
Brewers is a not-for-profit, educational organization based in Boulder, Colo.,
U.S.A. devoted to making quality beer and brewing knowledge accessible to all.”
For more information
contact:
Cindy Jones
Sales and Marketing
Director
Association of
Brewers
303.447.0816 x 144
=================================
HARPOON DOUBLING
BOSTON BREWERY CAPACITY
Harpoon Brewery, one
of New England's largest specialty brewers, has begun installation of more than
$1.5 million worth of new brewing equipment at its Boston facility, a project
that will eventually double the company's production capacity.
The installation will take approximately 10 weeks to complete and includes four brewing vessels, the largest of which has a capacity of more than 10,000 gallons.
Boston Mayor Thomas
Menino dedicated the new equipment Oct. 25 amid construction at the South
Boston-based brewery.
"We are excited
about our new brewing equipment because it will enable us to continue to brew
our high-quality beers while keeping up with the increasing demand for Harpoon
in Boston," Rich Doyle, Harpoon CEO and co-founder, said in a statement.
Founded in 1986, the
Harpoon Brewery produces 70,000 barrels of beer a year. The company employees
65 people at its Boston and Windsor, Vt., breweries.
http://boston.bizjournals.com/boston/stories/2002/10/21/daily50.html
=================================
OHIO ADJUSTS ABV LIMITS FOR BEER
Since 1933, Ohioans
have not been allowed to sell beer containing more than 6 percent alcohol. Now,
brewers and retailers can brew beers that are traditionally brewed at 12
percent alcohol by volume.
The primary result
will be a few new selections of ``craft'' beer in brewpubs and on store
shelves.
The bill sailed
through the Ohio legislature this year with bipartisan support. Among the
co-sponsors were House Majority Whip James Trakas, R-Independence, and House
Minority Leader Dean DePiero, D-Parma. Both men are from Greater Cleveland, home
of Great Lakes Brewing Co.
The Great Lakes'
year-round selection of beers range from 3.9 percent (Locktender Lager) to 5
percent (Eliot Ness). But now the brewers of Northeast Ohio are getting ready
to introduce imperial stouts, doppelbocks and barley wines. These brews can
reach 10 percent alcohol by volume as a rule.
It is expected that
brew pubs will enjoy more of an advantage than the microbreweries, which bottle
their beer for retail and rely on distribution to on premise establishments.
Great Lakes, which
does both, will test a few new concoctions in its downtown Cleveland pub before
putting anything into stores.
Northeast Ohio's
microbrewers have undergone a major thinning since the craze peaked in 1995. At
least five operations have run dry, including the highly decorated Liberty
Street Brewing Co. in Akron's Merriman Valley, and Burkhardt's, which once had
pubs in Green and Medina.
=================================
OLAND BREWERY ADDS
VOLUME IN HALIFAX
At the Oland Brewery
in north-end Halifax Saturday, a crane installed new fermentation tanks that
will be used to produce more than a million bottles of beer. Each tank stands
more than six stories high
The tanks arrived by
barge from Quebec on Friday and made the trip to the brewery under police
escort early in the morning. It took two hours to haul the tanks, each weighing
more than 18,000 kilograms (8,00 lbs.), through the city. They’re part of a
$14-million expansion.
Two cranes and a
400-ton hydraulic crane lifted the tanks over the top of other tanks, and
through the hole in the roof of the building built to contain them. The tanks
will be producing beer by March.
http://www.canada.com/halifax/dailynews/archives/story.asp?id=411B07DA-79D0-446F-B323-16BB6F57F7BF
============================
SPECIAL REPORT: AN
EASY GETAWAY FROM THE BIG EASY
By Sharon McDonnell
Sure, it's hard to tear yourself
away from the "Big Easy" where the good times continually roll. But
throw off those Mardi Gras beads, tear yourself away from Bourbon Street's
raucous jazz and blues clubs, and less than 45 minutes north of New Orleans
you'll find charming small towns, unspoiled nature, arts and antiques, and, oh
yes, gourmet food.
You'll also find the top regional
brewery in the Southeast, Abita Brewing Co., whose beers are now sold in 30
states. I was floored by the ambitious menu at Abita Brew Pub, also located in
the town of Abita Springs, where many dishes are made with Abita craft beers.
Barbecued crab claws sauteed in a BBQ sauce flavored with rosemary and Abita
Amber beer, a lager with a smooth, malty, slightly caramel flavor and Abita's
most popular brew, were so sensational I had to force myself to taste another
appetizer. Crawfish cake, served with fried tomatoes, is topped with a
remoulade of Turbodog -- a dark brown ale with a sweet chocolate-toffee-like
flavor, Abita's second most popular beer.
The baby back ribs entree is
marinated in stout, grilled with Purple Haze, Abita's crisp wheat beer which
tastes faintly of raspberries -- added during secondary fermentation -- and
doused with a BBQ sauce flavored with Abita root beer, made with pure Louisiana
cane sugar. (Rib fans, take note:
Wednesday is all-you-can-eat ribs night, with one free beer, for $13.95). Quail
is topped with a blueberry glaze laced
with raspberry-perfumed Purple Haze, served on a bed of andouille (spicy
sausage) stuffing, while a double-cut pork chop topped with Abita root beer
glaze is served on a mound of cornbread stuffing. Jumbo fried shrimp topped with a honey pecan meuniere sauce were
beerless, but sweetly scrumptious. So was the jambalaya with chicken and
andouille, with a side of crawfish cornbread.
Of course, gumbo, the smoky, spicy
soup crammed with seafood or chicken, and seafood po-boy sandwiches bursting
with fried shrimp, oysters and catfish -- staples of southern Louisiana Cajun
and Creole cuisine -- are offered. But so are Mediterranean seafood pasta with
marinara sauce, Greek salads and hamburgers.
"We put beer in most of our
food -- we like to have fun with it -- and try to take from different regions,
unlike, for example, a German brew pub," said Peter Johnson, sous chef at
the
115-seat restaurant,
which features an outdoor patio. "We have very stiff competition here in
the New Orleans area," says Vula Essaied, Greek by birth, who owns Abita
Brew Pub with her Tunisia-born husband, Martin.
The Abita brewery, located about a
mile away, offers weekend tours and tastings. "The lagniappe is all the
free beer you can drink," adds Ms. Essaied, using a common Louisiana word
which means a little something extra. Founded in 1986, the brewery this year
underwent a major renovation, expected to triple its brewing capacity. It
boasts the only Merlin wort boiling system -- designed to use 75% less energy
and reduce evaporation, made by Steinecker, a German manufacturer -- in the US.
Abita Springs is located in the New Orleans Northshore
area, in St. Tammany Parish, directly
across Lake Ponchartrain from the city. Nature-lovers, not to mention those
eager to burn off some calories, will enjoy the Tammany Trace, a 31-mile rails-to-trails
path ideal for bicycling, running, horseback-riding or strolling that stretches
from Abita Springs to Lacombe and beyond.
The Tammany Trace passes one deeply
eccentric attraction that pokes fun at
the Southern sensibility, the UCM Museum in Abita Springs. Artist/inventor John
Preble has transformed thousands of found objects and, let's be frank, junk,
into whimsical animated displays that come alive at the push of a button --
like a 30-foot tableau of Louisiana's
River Road, where a plantation sits next to an oil refinery and trailer, near a
motel, bar and BBQ joint. In his
tableau of a New Orleans jazz funeral,
skeletons rise from tombs and musicians sway. Martians gawk at a Mardi Gras
parade in another display.
"Kind of like my hobby that got
out of hand," Preble describes the
UCM -- pronounced You-see-em -- which he converted from a gas station. Don't
miss the 24-foot alligator with textured skin made from spray-foam insulation
and eyes made from beach balls, which seems to be the state animal; the shrine
to Elvis; the Airstream trailer attacked by aliens; and the maze built from
thousands of popsicle sticks.
Covington is an artsy small town of
a more conventional nature nearby, filled with art galleries and studios, where
live oak trees shade attractive homes. At Hasslock Studios, I watched majolica
being hand-painted, and admired its high-quality selection of
beautifully-decorated ceramics for sale.
Swamp eco-tours are everywhere in
Louisiana. On the Northshore, boat tours of Honey Island Swamp's eerie
landscape of bald cypress trees draped with Spanish moss -- with alligator
sightings practically guaranteed -- are offered by several companies in the
town of Slidell.
Much cuter and more fun, in my
opinion, were the llamas, giraffes, deer, bison and many other animals who ran
toward our covered wagons at breakneck speed for feeding time at the Global
Wildlife Center. Called the biggest free-roaming wildlife preserve in the US,
this 900-acre preserve in Folsom (the furthest from New Orleans of the towns
I've mentioned) has over 3,000 animals,
many rare or endangered. A group of wide-eyed second-graders who watched
a giraffe give birth in front of their wagon found their tour educational in
more ways than one.
For more information contact the St.
Tammany Parish Tourist Commission
at www.neworleansnorthshore.com or 800-634-9443, Abita Brewing Co. at www.abita.com , and Abita Brew Pub at 985-892-5837.
============================
BEER & THE HUNGRY VEGAN: DINNER IS SERVED
By Kurt Epps
with Peg Zwerver
Craft beer brewers don’t have an easy gig. Sure, beer lovers may think that making beer everyday may be the best job anyone could have, but there’s more to being a microbrewer than just making the beer. Homebrewers can do that.
Microbrewers have to
market and sell their beer, at least if they want to remain viable in an
unforgiving and often cruel business where rewards are not measured by income,
but by medals and the biggest indicator--public recognition and acceptance of
your product. In a culture where less than six percent of all beer consumed is
craft beer, getting the public to be aware of your product is critical. Getting
them to try it: even moreso.
That’s why Tom Baker
of Jersey’s Heavyweight Brewing (the little brewery that’s bigger and smaller
than most) has the right idea. Tom eschews the medal scene, but he and his
beers are seemingly omnipresent at many tastings and festivals. A growing
number of beer bars are sprouting his trademark taps in the shapes of paint
brushes, sticks, hammers and smoking billygoats He simply wants people to try
his beer and enjoy it.
Many people, first in
Jersey, then in the greater metro area, and now across the country are doing
just that. In fact, he recently sent a cask of his Perkuno’s Hammer as a gift
to the Great British Beer Festival for the organizers to enjoy, not to
evaluate. They wound up giving it a Silver medal, declaring it America’s second
best beer—and it wasn’t even entered in the competition.
I spoke to Tom and
wife Peggy at a recent Jersey beer dinner. Tom frequently co-sponsors dinners
with local Jersey brewpubs to help boost awareness of the NJ beer scene. They
had just flown in from San Francisco (no, their arms weren’t tired), where
Heavyweight’s beers were featured at a different kind of beer dinner—a totally
vegetarian one.
Held at the
Millennium Restaurant (246 McAllister St.) under the auspices of Executive Chef
Eric Tucker, the dinner was dubbed the Chile
Pepper Dinner. It featured the Heavyweight beers that are becoming
household words across the nation among lovers of big, bold craft beers:
Stickenjab, a hoppy, 6.4% altbier; Perkuno’s Hammer, a thunderous Baltic
Porter, Biere d’Art, a biere de garde in the saison family and Baltus, a big
brown ale.
The beers were paired
with vegan delicacies from a very extensive menu:
Starters -
paired with Stickenjab Alt
Roasted pimento
roulade with herbed white chocolate ‘cheese’
Chanterelle mushroom
and aji chile ceviche
Sauteed Spanish
pimento de Padron & red pepperoncini
Jalapeno on a stick
with persimmon
Candied chipotle
toasted pecans
Appetizer - paired with Biere d’Art
Indian Flatbread
(chile, garlic & potato); toasted lentil, peanut & coconut salad;
Bhindi
chutney; warm melon & coconut curry
Pan-Asian Dumpling
(Japanese eggplant, shitake mushroom & sunchoke);
Five-spice
Kobocha squash puree; fried shallots; Asian pear salad;
Tamarind
& Thai chile oil
Intermezzo
Avocado sorbet; black
truffle gelee; habanero aspic
Entrée -
paired with Baltus O.V.S. ale
Chile Relleno – beer
batter fried chile poblano; seitan & pecan asado filling;
Chilhuacle
ranchero sauce; pozole & nopales salad;
Cape
gooseberries
Exotic Mushroom Black
Bean Cake – Hen of the Woods, Clamshell, Shitake & Cauliflower
Mushroom
& greens; black bean cake; coconut mashed yams;
“Uncle
Junior’s” yellow pepper hempseed Mole; hearts of palm, citrus &
jicama
salad; mojo verde
Dessert -
paired with Perkuno’s Hammer Imperial Porter
Mole chocolate
pinenut brownie; raspberry chipotle sauce; coconut, jalapeno & chocolate
Chunk
sorbet; cilantro & mint syrup
Apple pineapple ancho
strudel – vanilla pina sauce; mango habanero sorbet; passionfruit
&
red pepper caramel
Chef Tucker, author
of the menu above, had met the peripatetic Baker at some beer fest, fell in
love with Baker’s brews and invited him out to Frisco for the event. Baker and
his wife are both vegetarians and jumped at the chance to see how Tom’s brews
paired up with the non-meat fare.
Apparently they
matched up very well, because Baker was inundated with requests from attendees
to send his beer out West. The irony wasn’t lost on Baker, who once claimed
that his goal was “to have some guy in California want my beer and not be able
to get it.”
Selling his beer in
beer-knowledgeable California would certainly give options to help any chef
discover the culinary--and monetary--rewards good beer and food pairings can
bring. Vegetarian beer dinners are relatively new, and it is likely that more
vegetarian-prone chefs will be picking up on this beer dinner’s success. When
the vegetarian public begins to pick up on it, beer will have made another
important inroad on its quest to enjoy the same status as wine when it comes to
food pairing.
But they won’t be
able to get Heavyweight beers to match up with their food on a regular basis.
One reason is that finding a distributor in the Golden State to handle one
Jersey guy’s beer may not be easy. Another is that not many Jersey beers get
Left Coast press, though east coast beer lovers read about, know and enjoy the
beers of the West often.
For now, Californians
will have to hope that some other local chefs will look for this rising star in
the east, build a beer dinner series and invite Baker to co-host their event,
because, short of coming to Jersey, that’s the only way they’ll get to enjoy
Baker’s Brews.
And given his
penchant for perambulation, if they build it, Baker will come.
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NEW PRODUCTS -
PROMOTIONS – EVENTS – DINNERS:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
REDBONES NORTHWEST
BREWERS BANQUETS
Dates: Mon, Nov 18
& Tues, Nov 19, 2002 @ 7:00 PM
Throughout November, Redbones taps a selection of Northwest craft beers rarely available in the East. Two dinners highlight the month. They feature speaker/brewers: Dick Cantwell from Elysian Brewing, Fred Bowman from Portland Brewing, Steve Lovin from Siletz, Fal Allen from Anderson Valley, and Sebbie Buhler from Rogue.
Location:
Redbones
55 Chester Street
Somerville, MA
Admission:
$35.00 per person, tax and gratuity included
Reservations:
Required. Call 617.628.2200
For information: Call 617.628.2200 or visit www.redbones.com
=====================================================================
GREAT INTERNATIONAL
BEER FESTIVAL & GREAT INTERNATIONAL BEER COMPETITION
The Great
International Beer Festival and the Great International Beer Competition return
to Providence, Rhode Island on November 8 and 9. This year marks the ninth year for the festival and the sixth
year for the competition, both held at the Rhode Island Convention Center.
Previously named the
Great Northeast International Beer Festival and the Great Northeast
International Beer Competition, the two events are greatly expanded in scope
this year, bringing in more beers from around the country and around the world. This expansion necessitated the dropping of
the word Northeast from the events' names.
The Great
International Beer Festival, held on Saturday, November 9, expects to attract
approximately 5,000 people during the afternoon and evening sessions. Over 300 beers will be offered from at least
60 breweries.
The Great
International Beer Competition, taking place on Friday, November 8, expects to
draw several hundred professionally brewed domestic and imported beers and
ciders. The beers and ciders will be
judged in blind tasting panels by professional brewers. Gold, silver and bronze awards will be
awarded in style categories.
Information about the
Great International Beer Festival and the Great International Beer Competition
is available from Festivals of America: www.click2beers.com
, 401-274-3234. Brewing News.com is the
media sponsor for both events.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
NOVEMBER
1-3 – 25th PINT
Bokbierfestival, Amsterdam, The Netherlands, www.bbf.htm
2 – 4th Annual AHA
Teach A Friend to Homebrew Day, Anywhere You Happen To Be,
888-822-6273, www.beertown.org/AHA/
2 – Maine Brewer's Festival, Portland, ME, 207-771-7571,
www.mainebrew.com
8 – 9 -- The 6th
Annual Great Northeast Beer & Cider Competition/ 9th Annual Great Northeast
International Beer Fest, Providence, RI.
Contact: Competition
Director: Gregg Glaser, 203-834-0800;
Contact: gregg@yankeebrew.com
Festivals of America:
Maury Ryan, 401-272-0980;
Contact: ryan@lovecraft.com
22-23 – 10th The
Great Canadian Beer Festival, Victoria, British Columbia,
250-383-2332, www.gcbf.com
DECEMBER
6-7 – Harpoon
Christmas Party, Boston, MA, 617-574-9551 ext 3,
14-15 – 7th Annual
Kerstbierfestival (Christmas Beer Festival), Essen, Belgium,
http://home2.pi.be/gmarch/eng/kerst_eng.htm
#####
CHECK THESE OUT:
THE FOOD REFERENCE
NEWSLETTER
Food History, Trivia,
Quotes, Humor, Poetry, Recipes
James T. Ehler, Editor
james@foodreference.com
HELLEN’S BRITISH
COOKING SITE
“I hope my site
reflects the rich tradition of British cooking in its broadest sense.”
http://www.hwatson.force9.co.uk/index.htm